To any European contemplating crossing a busy city street in
Vietnam other than by a footbridge, the best advice would be, 'Don't.'
Locals step straight into the traffic stream, trusting all drivers and
motorcyclists to make micro steering adjustments to pass ahead or behind
them and most seem to emerge safely on the other side, but if you
haven't spent long years at your mother's side rehearsing this manoeuver
it is best left un-attempted.
At most major road junctions in Hanoi, footbridges have been provided. These are almost totally neglected by the adult population but one does occasionally see children or a nervous foreigner ascending the steps. The very old and decrepit however, quail at the prospect of the long climb, and still plunge into the melee, claiming the right to proceed at whatever snail's pace the years have left them. The same privilege is assumed by those carrying a large or heavy burden or pushing a trolley. The refuse collectors who abound during the last hour of daylight assert absolute priority for their large wheeled bins.
Under most of the footbridges, the authorities have erected a waist-high steel fence running for a hundred metres or so on either side of the bridge on a central island dividing the two traffic streams. If this is intended to encourage people to use the footbridge it is rather ineffective. The young, male and athletic can be seen easily negotiating this barrier and the others cross beyond its extension.
Those visitors who find it essential to cross a busy road at a location devoid of a footbridge may succeed if they have enough patience. Long experience has proved that there are occasional breaks in the traffic, except during the rush hour, when one could in theory cross safely. However, one must be careful that no traffic is coming in the wrong direction or taking the opportunity to shoot out of a secluded alleyway, or even a house or shop doorway. Cyclists, especially, often ignore the rule of the road, and all vehicles at times attempt an excursion on the wild side.
Many people are familiar with the signs painted on the road at pedestrian crossings in London. They tell one to 'look right' and 'look left' and guarantee the safety of the crossing. One won't find any such guidance in Hanoi, and if it was there, it would only add to the danger. Pedestrian crossings are painted on the road but they are totally ignored by all traffic. The golden rule is 'look both ways' when attempting to cross each carriageway.
There is one other way to cross a road in Hanoi in an emergency, and that is to ask a fit, able and trusted local person to be your guide. This should only be ventured by those who have nerves of steel and a good life insurance policy. Take firm hold of the proffered hand and keep the eyes tightly closed!
At most major road junctions in Hanoi, footbridges have been provided. These are almost totally neglected by the adult population but one does occasionally see children or a nervous foreigner ascending the steps. The very old and decrepit however, quail at the prospect of the long climb, and still plunge into the melee, claiming the right to proceed at whatever snail's pace the years have left them. The same privilege is assumed by those carrying a large or heavy burden or pushing a trolley. The refuse collectors who abound during the last hour of daylight assert absolute priority for their large wheeled bins.
Under most of the footbridges, the authorities have erected a waist-high steel fence running for a hundred metres or so on either side of the bridge on a central island dividing the two traffic streams. If this is intended to encourage people to use the footbridge it is rather ineffective. The young, male and athletic can be seen easily negotiating this barrier and the others cross beyond its extension.
Those visitors who find it essential to cross a busy road at a location devoid of a footbridge may succeed if they have enough patience. Long experience has proved that there are occasional breaks in the traffic, except during the rush hour, when one could in theory cross safely. However, one must be careful that no traffic is coming in the wrong direction or taking the opportunity to shoot out of a secluded alleyway, or even a house or shop doorway. Cyclists, especially, often ignore the rule of the road, and all vehicles at times attempt an excursion on the wild side.
Many people are familiar with the signs painted on the road at pedestrian crossings in London. They tell one to 'look right' and 'look left' and guarantee the safety of the crossing. One won't find any such guidance in Hanoi, and if it was there, it would only add to the danger. Pedestrian crossings are painted on the road but they are totally ignored by all traffic. The golden rule is 'look both ways' when attempting to cross each carriageway.
There is one other way to cross a road in Hanoi in an emergency, and that is to ask a fit, able and trusted local person to be your guide. This should only be ventured by those who have nerves of steel and a good life insurance policy. Take firm hold of the proffered hand and keep the eyes tightly closed!
John Powell
John Powell weaves a tale of tension and intrigue into the lives and loves of the Mainu family and their friends, against the rich social, cultural, economic and political background of the first four decades of Ghana's independence, in his two novels: The Colonial Gentleman's Son and Return to the Garden City.
John Powell weaves a tale of tension and intrigue into the lives and loves of the Mainu family and their friends, against the rich social, cultural, economic and political background of the first four decades of Ghana's independence, in his two novels: The Colonial Gentleman's Son and Return to the Garden City.
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