t's quite surprising how many of us who live in The Maritimes don't
know much about traveling in their own "Back Yard". For those of you not
from this region, Canada's Maritime Provinces are Nova Scotia, Prince
Edward Island and New Brunswick. If you add Newfoundland/Labrador it
becomes "Eastern Canada"! I guess it wasn't until I got in to the travel
business in 1995 that I really toured more extensively in the area. It
took seeing some other incredible parts of the world to really make me
appreciate my home. This article features a great route enjoyed by
locals and visitors alike.
The "South Shore" or "Lighthouse Route" stretches from Halifax to Yarmouth along the Atlantic Ocean. It's the home to incredible scenery, coastal views, quaint towns, warm and friendly folk, lighthouses (of course) and some of the best little pubs in the world. For the purposes of this story we will only go as far as Bridgewater, along the coastal Route 3 and it's offshoot 3 Series roads. More on other parts of this coast will be featured at another point.
If you have not visited the Peggy's Cove area, or are looking to re-visit, you should. I will say that it's a bit touristy, but still a wonderful spot. With it's wave-swept rocks it paints a lovely picture. But don't go too close, as there have been many occasions where unsuspecting visitors have been washed out to sea by one of many "rogue waves". The Lighthouse itself is actually called Peggy's Point Lighthouse built in 1915. One of 160 historic lighthouses whose majestic beacons can be found throughout the province.
The Village of Peggy's Cove is famed for its picturesque and typically East-Coast profile, with houses perched along a narrow inlet and on wave-washed boulders facing the Atlantic. Although this unique environment has been designated a preservation area, it is still a busy lobster fishing village full of hustle, bustle and boats during the Lobster Season in that region. Each region of the Maritimes has it's own season, which is government regulated.
Along the route to Peggy's, along Highway 333 in West Dover (another fishing village), is a great spot to wet your whistle and sample scrumptious seafood and other great grub. Shaw's Landing is right on the water, with a spectacular view of the harbour. It has a very unique history that I'll let them tell you. The atmosphere here is warm, friendly and offers free internet service to boot! Aside from the seafood, the "Landing" offers burgers, fries, etc. Daily specials, a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu for the youngin's.
Now the journey continues past Peggy's Cove and up to link with Route 3, or the "old road" as we call it, along the Atlantic Coast. The scenery speaks for itself. You'll go by Queensland Beach Provincial Park. A nice stroll if it's not filled with sunbathers and frisbee tossers on a hot summer day. Our next Tavern Trek is in the seaside town of Chester, noted for sailing, stately homes, magnificent gardens and a relaxed lifestyle. Plus Nova Scotia's Oldest Pub, the Fo'c'sle, affectionately known as "Chester's Living Room", is a casual spot for locals and those just passing through. Come on in and sit awhile at the old bar. The kitchen strives to offer the highest quality food by selecting the freshest ingredients and preparing them with care. They offer a great selection of hearty "pub grub," traditional Maritime dishes and a variety of daily specials.
Wind your way back up the other side of Chester and continue south to the heartwarming town of Mahone Bay. It's exceptional scenery features three magnificent Churches along the water, one of the most photographed views in Canada. Steeped in nautical history and even a little piratical intrigue the town's harbour is carved out of Nova Scotia's craggy South Shore. Protected waters and magnificent vistas make it a popular sailing, kayaking, cycling and hiking destination. But for us this day, it's all about the PUB. Easily ranked high in my list of faves in Nova Scotia, The Mug & Anchor English Pub boasts one of the most beautiful balcony views you'll ever see. Upon entry you'll find over 17 local and imported beers on tap and a full pub styled menu including fresh, local seafood of course. Brunch is also excellent if you get there on the weekend.
Just a few minutes down Route 3 lies one of Nova Scotia's jewels, Lunenburg. It was formally established in 1753 as the first British Colonial settlement in Nova Scotia outside of Halifax. Among it's accolades: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, National Historic District, Prettiest Painted Places in Canada, Port City of the Year and Society of American Travel Writers' awards. My accolade goes to The Knot Pub! "It looks like a hobbit hole but it's a delicious pub", wrote one TripAdvisor reviewer.
After our day in the salty air, and sensory overload from the stunning architecture and scenery. Time to wind down and relax with a pint. If you're wondering where the locals go - this is it. It has a decidedly sea-shanty-esque charm. One of the main curiosities as you walk in are the large, horseshoe-shaped seats which look like they would be right at home in the bow of a tall ship. For hundreds of years, oak was the traditional wood used for boat building in Lunenburg and inspired much of the wooden interior. The food is homemade and plentiful; the staff is as friendly as they come, oh and the beer is pretty good too!!
As we head to our last stop in Bridgewater, you might be in need of a nap, or a designated driver, but the fun's not over yet. Your destination: the LaHave River Ferry on Highway 332 in East LaHave. As one of the last remaining cable ferries in Nova Scotia, this unique 5 minute journey gives you a perfect 360° view of life on the river. Carrying 14 cars on a outdoor flat bed, the trip costs a whopping 5 bucks. The cheapest and shortest sightseeing cruise of your life! It departs going to LaHave (the other side of the mighty LaHave River) every half hour on the:15 and:45. Once you've "landed", the museum and lighthouse lovers can take a left for a kilo up the road follow the blue Historic Site signs to Fort Point, the first Capital of New France in 1632. There you can check out the lighthouse and museum.
If you just want to get to the Pub, go right off the ferry on Route 331 for about 15 minutes winding along the river. This turns in to King St. as you approach the town of Bridgewater. You can't miss our final Pub Stop, the aptly named River Pub at 750 King St, on the right overlooking the water. Enjoy the wonderful patio directly overlooking the River. It is one of the most enjoyable locations on the South Shore to dine or relax with friends. Eight brews on tap, including their own brand. The menu features all the pub classics as well as specialty dishes like the Mariner Mouthful, Rosie Melt, Lunenburger, Potachos, and the list goes on. A great last stop on the Pub Trail. From here, you just follow the signs to the 103 Highway for an easy hour drive back to Halifax.
The "South Shore" or "Lighthouse Route" stretches from Halifax to Yarmouth along the Atlantic Ocean. It's the home to incredible scenery, coastal views, quaint towns, warm and friendly folk, lighthouses (of course) and some of the best little pubs in the world. For the purposes of this story we will only go as far as Bridgewater, along the coastal Route 3 and it's offshoot 3 Series roads. More on other parts of this coast will be featured at another point.
If you have not visited the Peggy's Cove area, or are looking to re-visit, you should. I will say that it's a bit touristy, but still a wonderful spot. With it's wave-swept rocks it paints a lovely picture. But don't go too close, as there have been many occasions where unsuspecting visitors have been washed out to sea by one of many "rogue waves". The Lighthouse itself is actually called Peggy's Point Lighthouse built in 1915. One of 160 historic lighthouses whose majestic beacons can be found throughout the province.
The Village of Peggy's Cove is famed for its picturesque and typically East-Coast profile, with houses perched along a narrow inlet and on wave-washed boulders facing the Atlantic. Although this unique environment has been designated a preservation area, it is still a busy lobster fishing village full of hustle, bustle and boats during the Lobster Season in that region. Each region of the Maritimes has it's own season, which is government regulated.
Along the route to Peggy's, along Highway 333 in West Dover (another fishing village), is a great spot to wet your whistle and sample scrumptious seafood and other great grub. Shaw's Landing is right on the water, with a spectacular view of the harbour. It has a very unique history that I'll let them tell you. The atmosphere here is warm, friendly and offers free internet service to boot! Aside from the seafood, the "Landing" offers burgers, fries, etc. Daily specials, a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu for the youngin's.
Now the journey continues past Peggy's Cove and up to link with Route 3, or the "old road" as we call it, along the Atlantic Coast. The scenery speaks for itself. You'll go by Queensland Beach Provincial Park. A nice stroll if it's not filled with sunbathers and frisbee tossers on a hot summer day. Our next Tavern Trek is in the seaside town of Chester, noted for sailing, stately homes, magnificent gardens and a relaxed lifestyle. Plus Nova Scotia's Oldest Pub, the Fo'c'sle, affectionately known as "Chester's Living Room", is a casual spot for locals and those just passing through. Come on in and sit awhile at the old bar. The kitchen strives to offer the highest quality food by selecting the freshest ingredients and preparing them with care. They offer a great selection of hearty "pub grub," traditional Maritime dishes and a variety of daily specials.
Wind your way back up the other side of Chester and continue south to the heartwarming town of Mahone Bay. It's exceptional scenery features three magnificent Churches along the water, one of the most photographed views in Canada. Steeped in nautical history and even a little piratical intrigue the town's harbour is carved out of Nova Scotia's craggy South Shore. Protected waters and magnificent vistas make it a popular sailing, kayaking, cycling and hiking destination. But for us this day, it's all about the PUB. Easily ranked high in my list of faves in Nova Scotia, The Mug & Anchor English Pub boasts one of the most beautiful balcony views you'll ever see. Upon entry you'll find over 17 local and imported beers on tap and a full pub styled menu including fresh, local seafood of course. Brunch is also excellent if you get there on the weekend.
Just a few minutes down Route 3 lies one of Nova Scotia's jewels, Lunenburg. It was formally established in 1753 as the first British Colonial settlement in Nova Scotia outside of Halifax. Among it's accolades: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, National Historic District, Prettiest Painted Places in Canada, Port City of the Year and Society of American Travel Writers' awards. My accolade goes to The Knot Pub! "It looks like a hobbit hole but it's a delicious pub", wrote one TripAdvisor reviewer.
After our day in the salty air, and sensory overload from the stunning architecture and scenery. Time to wind down and relax with a pint. If you're wondering where the locals go - this is it. It has a decidedly sea-shanty-esque charm. One of the main curiosities as you walk in are the large, horseshoe-shaped seats which look like they would be right at home in the bow of a tall ship. For hundreds of years, oak was the traditional wood used for boat building in Lunenburg and inspired much of the wooden interior. The food is homemade and plentiful; the staff is as friendly as they come, oh and the beer is pretty good too!!
As we head to our last stop in Bridgewater, you might be in need of a nap, or a designated driver, but the fun's not over yet. Your destination: the LaHave River Ferry on Highway 332 in East LaHave. As one of the last remaining cable ferries in Nova Scotia, this unique 5 minute journey gives you a perfect 360° view of life on the river. Carrying 14 cars on a outdoor flat bed, the trip costs a whopping 5 bucks. The cheapest and shortest sightseeing cruise of your life! It departs going to LaHave (the other side of the mighty LaHave River) every half hour on the:15 and:45. Once you've "landed", the museum and lighthouse lovers can take a left for a kilo up the road follow the blue Historic Site signs to Fort Point, the first Capital of New France in 1632. There you can check out the lighthouse and museum.
If you just want to get to the Pub, go right off the ferry on Route 331 for about 15 minutes winding along the river. This turns in to King St. as you approach the town of Bridgewater. You can't miss our final Pub Stop, the aptly named River Pub at 750 King St, on the right overlooking the water. Enjoy the wonderful patio directly overlooking the River. It is one of the most enjoyable locations on the South Shore to dine or relax with friends. Eight brews on tap, including their own brand. The menu features all the pub classics as well as specialty dishes like the Mariner Mouthful, Rosie Melt, Lunenburger, Potachos, and the list goes on. A great last stop on the Pub Trail. From here, you just follow the signs to the 103 Highway for an easy hour drive back to Halifax.
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